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Top 100 Houston restaurant: Morningstar

by Alison Cook

Published on September 27, 2018 by houstonchronicle.com

Doughnuts at MorningstarPhoto: Elizabeth Conley, Staff / Houston Chronicle.
Cappuccino and the “cop donut” at MorningstarPhoto: Melissa Phillip, Staff / Houston Chronicle.
Black rice bowl with coconut milk and fruit at MorningstarPhoto: Melissa Phillip, Staff / Houston Chronicle.

The order counter at MorningstarPhoto: Erin Hull / Erin Hull.

Doughnuts at MorningstarPhoto: Elizabeth Conley, Staff / Houston Chronicle.

Vegan cereal with granola and tri-blend milk at MorningstarPhoto: Melissa Phillip, Staff / Houston Chronicle.

Kibbeh chili with a biscuit at MorningstarPhoto: Melissa Phillip, Staff / Houston Chronicle.

David Buehrer at MorningstarPhoto: Melissa Phillip, Staff / Houston Chronicle.

This young Heights doughnut specialist is the very model of a 21st century coffee shop. First, there is proper caffeine, in the form of meticulously made espresso drinks, plus an inventive tea program. Those are hallmarks of proprietors David Buehrer and Ecky Prabanto, owners of the much-loved Greenway Coffee Company. Second, there are thoughtful breakfast and brunchy items like biscuit sandwiches or virtuous rice bowls or chile-hot, crunchy-soft potatoes topped with an egg. Third comes inventive lunch choices: an irresistible fried chicken biscuit, a standup burger, a brilliant bo luc lac in salad form. And oh, yeah, those gorgeous newfangled doughnuts, too. From the plump, cake-based “cop donut” dusted with palm sugar and cinnamon, to a lush special frosted with smooth goat cheese icing and pomegranate seeds, they are memorable stuff. And like all the best coffee shops, the cool industrial room and varied clientele make for a great hang.


WHAT TO ORDER: Cortado; flat white; iced matcha in cafe sua da style; orange-infused iced coffee; cheddar, Moneycat potatoes; fried chicken biscuit with sambal honey; crispy rice bowl; shaken beef salad.


PRO TIP: Grab a bag of Greenway’s expertly roasted coffee beans for your home grinder.


Cuisine: Contemporary American

Entree price: $-$$

Where: 4721 N. Main

Phone: 832-806-1115


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